Crochet Ice Skate Ornaments

As mentioned in my previous post, I gave Christmas gifts to my department this year, and these handmade ornaments were the easy part. My grandmother made a few for each of her children many years ago, and I snagged one from my parents house and did my best to duplicate what she did.

Tools:
2 jumbo paper clips
2 colors of contrasting yarn
F hook

Instructions:

Row 1: Starting with whatever color you’ve chosen as the main skate color, make 10 sc in the top of the paper clip (I found that 8 sc in the bigger section and 2 sc at the end worked best for me).
Row 2: Don’t make a chain here! Skip the first sc, sc in the next st, hdc in the following st, and then dc to the end of the row (you will have a total of 1 sc, 1 hdc, and 7 dc).
Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc to end.
Rows 4-6: Repeat row 3.
Fasten off, then repeat for the second skate.

For the yarn with which you will hang them, I cut 2 lengths of yarn a little more than  twice as long as I wanted them to hang. Take one, fold it in half, and thread the loop through a corner of the skate (either will do, as long as you do the same corner for both skates). Then, take the length and pull it through the loop you just made to attach it. Repeat for both skates, then tie the loose ends together.

With the contrasting color, weave the laces – I cut off 10-12 inches to do this (I learned my lesson quickly; tying knots with tiny bits of yarn is super difficult). It’s difficult to explain this process in words, so hopefully the photos below will help illustrate. (It isn’t unlike lacing a regular shoe…if you didn’t have lace holes, at least.)

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I’m pretty pleased with how they turned out! It’s a pretty easy and quick project, so it’s great for group gifts, like these.

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Santa Hat Pattern

My sister-in-law asked me if I could create a Santa inspired hat (initially for New York SantaCon). She texted me a photo for inspiration, and I came up with this:

Sorry everyone, I’m not single.

I even remembered to write down the pattern!

Hat

Create a magic ring.
Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout; the first dc in each round should be a ch3!), 9 dc (10 dc)
Round 2: 2 dc in each dc (20 dc)
Round 3: *2dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc* repeat from * to * until end (30 dc)
Round 4: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc each in next 2 dc* repeat from * to * until end (40 dc)
Round 5: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc each in next 3 dc* repeat from * to * until end (50 dc)
Rounds 6-12: 1 dc in each dc (50 dc)

Do not bind off after round 12!

Earflaps

Row 1: Turn, ch3 (does not count as first dc, here and throughout earflap), dc 7, turn
Row 2: ch3, dc 7, turn
Row 3: ch3, dc2tog, dc3, dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch3, dc2tog, dc1, dc2tog, turn
Row 5: 
ch3, dc3, bind off

Count 20. join at 21st and repeat earflap pattern. (I would do row 1 of the second earflap, and then make sure it lines up to your own ears. This is what worked for me!)

Belt

**For this, I just worked the first row of sc in the 10th row of the hat. Since you’re working sc over dc (worked in the round, no less, so I had to mess around with stitch placement to get them to line up), I wouldn’t suggest this method. I mean, it looks fine, but it’ll be much easier to sc a black strip, and just whipstitch or sew it to attach. So, I will give the instructions for a black band.

Chain 51, turn
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end, ch1, turn (50sc)
Row 2: sc in each sc, ch1, turn (50sc)
Repeat row 2 three more times. Attach around hat (mine wound up spanning rows 8-10 of the hat)

Buckle

All you have to do here is surface slip stitch in a vaguely squareish/rectangular shape. Just make sure the top and bottom parts of the buckle are on the red part of the hat, and that the buckle is centered in the front of your head. My buckle was 5 stitches on the top and bottom, and 6 stitches on each side.

Here is a video on how to surface slip stitch: slip stitch surface: http://youtu.be/EJ8FI5PJfvk

Edging

With a fur yarn (I don’t know of any other than Lion Brand Fun Fur), sc all round the hat.

Pom Pom

I used the wrap method, and used width of DVD case and wrapped ~60-70 times. This turned out WAY TOO BIG and lead to 45 minutes of trimming and 15 minutes of vacuuming all the bits. I attached it  just by tying a knot on inside of hat.

This project on Ravelry

Wonder Woman Earwarmers

My sister, for some inexplicable reason, loves Wonder Woman. I think she even tried to defend that awful television show for a few days. So during my Crafty Christmas 2011 Brainstorming Session, I thought earwarmers that resembled Wonder Woman’s headpiece.

This project required quite a bit of brainstorming on it’s own – I approached the design from every angle. Work it lengthwise or widthwise? Should I try to put that point thing at the top? What about the star? In the end, I worked back and forth for the width of headband (it made decreasing the width behind the head much easier). I didn’t include the pointed part of Wonder Woman’s headpiece, because the earwarmers are so wide on their own it just would have looked silly. I used alternating double crochets and single crochets; it’s a different texture, and I think it’s a bit denser than one stitch or the other on its own, and the whole point of this thing is to keep ones ears warm!

Instead of chaining 15 and then making 14sc, I used the “no foundation chain” tutorial (found here). I love using this method because it eliminates the tension on the foundation row, and it can easily be adapted for any stitch for the first row of any project. Of course, you can always ch15 and make 14sc if you prefer that.

Row 1: 14sc (or any even amount)
Rows 2-45: ch2, *dc in next st, sc in next st* repeat from * to * until the end of the row (7dc, 7sc)
Row 46: dc2tog, *sc in next st, dc in next st* repeat from * to * until the last 2 stitches, sc2tog
Row 47: work even, like in rows 2-45
Row 48: work row 46 – 10st
Row 49: work even
Row 50: work row 46 – 8st
Rows 51-61: work even
Row 62: dc and sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st* repeat * to * until last stitch, dc and sc in last st (10 st)
Row 63: work even
Row 64: dc and sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st* repeat * to * until last stitch, dc and sc in last st (12 st)
Row 65: work even
Row 66: dc and sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st* repeat * to * until last stitch, dc and sc in last st (14 st)
Row 67: work even
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use this tail to sew your last row to the first row.

Star:
Round 1: Make a ring, ch 3 (acts as first dc), 14 dc in ring, join.
Round 2: *Ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch. Sl st in next 3 dc of round 1* repeat from * to * until the end, join.
Round 3: *hdc in st before chain from round 2, sl st in 3rd ch from round 2, ch4, sl st in middle sl st from round 2* work from * to * until the end, join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail with which to attach to the earwarmers.

I know full well this might be one of the most ridiculous patterns for a star ever, but it worked for me and the yarn I was using (which was rather bulky, if that helps).

This project on Ravelry
Ravel it!

“It’s Supposed To Be A Monkey But It Looks Like A Weird Ewok”

To be more accurate, it actually looks like a regular Ewok. Which would be great, if that’s what I was going for! Let me explain…

For some holiday at some point (I want to say a birthday, but who knows), I got my boyfriend a stuffed monkey from Hallmark. We have an inside joke with monkeys, and I happened to see it when I was in there getting something else (probably a card for said birthday). At the time I was unsure of it…it’s kind of odd looking. I think it’s the fur that bothers me, but I don’t really know. But if I recall, I was looking for something small for a specific purpose, so I just went with it. Unfortunately for me, the boyfriend loved it and I see it ALL THE TIME. I try hiding it and throwing it and doing whatever I can, but he still displays it somewhere where I can see it/it can see me.

Well, I’ve finally decided I’ve had enough of this poppycock. With an upcoming anniversary, I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to crochet something pattern free, with the added bonus of replacing Nasty Monkey. So I just started crocheting with no real plan in mind, except that I wanted it to be round like the pig and penguin from Lion Brand.

Here is the amazing result. I am slightly disappointed, because it just doesn’t really look like a monkey. It’s very cute, and I like it as a cute thing, but notsomuch as a monkey. I think it’s because of how high I placed the ears, but if they were much lower they’d be entirely too close to his little hands. I may add some nostril slits just to differentiate my special creation from an Ewok. (Ewoks are cute, but they are not monkeys!)

I gave it a tail in a feeble attempt at primate-ness, but since it’s, you know, in the back, it goes unnoticed for the most part. But that’s alright, because at least he has one. How else is he supposed to swing from trees?! But, like I mentioned, I did this pattern off the top of my head, so I’d like to share it with anyone who comes across it. (For the record, I used my beloved H hook, but gauge isn’t particularly important for this.)

HANDS/FEET (make 4)
Round 1: sc 6 in a ring (if you do a search online for the magic ring, that’s personally my favorite method for working with something that is round)
Round 2: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next, continue to end (9 sc)
Round 3: work even (9 sc)
Round 4: sc2tog, 1 sc, continue to end (3 sc, 3 sctog)
Fold the resulting tube-ish thing in half, and sl st the open end together. Leave a tail of a few inches to use to attach to the body later.

EARS (make 2)
Round 1: 6 sc in ring
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (12 sc)
sl st in 1st sc of last round, fasten off. Leave a tail of a few inches to use to attach to the body later.

FACE
Ch 10, turn
Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch (9 sc)
Round 2: ch 1, turn, sc to end (9 sc)
Rounds 3-7: Repeat round 2
Round 8: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in 1st sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 tc in each of the next 3 st, 1 dc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, sc in last st (2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tc – 9 st total)
Round 9: sl st in 1st st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl sp in last st (2 sl st, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc – 9 st total)
Make a row of sc around the three flat sides.

TAIL
Ch 25, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to the end.

BODY
Round 1: 6 sc in a ring
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (12 sc)
Round 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next, continue to end (18 sc)
Round 4: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc, continue to end (24 sc)
Round 5: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, continue to end (30 sc)
Round 6: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, continue to end (36 sc)
Round 7: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc, continue to end (42 sc)
Rounds 8-18: Work even (42 sc)
Round 19: sc2tog, sc in next 5, continue to end (36 sc)
Round 20: sc2tog, sc in next 4, continue to end (30 sc)

Right around here would be a good time to attach the ears, face & eyes, and hands.

Round 21: sc2tog, sc in next 3, continue to end (24 sc)
Round 22: sc2tog, sc in next 2, continue to end (18 sc)

This is where I started stuffing the little sucker.

Round 23: sc2tog, sc in next sc, continue to end (12 sc)
Round 24: sc2tog around (6 sc)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail to weave through the remaining 6 sc and pull, closing off this end of the sphere. Weave in this end and attach the remaining two feet and the tail.

Castle Crashers Themed MP3 Player Case

After the demise of more MP3 players than I am willing to acknowledge, I am now in possession of my boyfriend’s Zen MX, as he procured a Zune HD and had no reason for it anymore. I’ve had this player for six months now, and even though it reboots itself for absolutely no reason, I still like it enough to feel the need to give it a home (other than floating around in my giant I-could-fit-10-dead-babies-in-this purse). To the crochet hooks!

I used a G hook for most of this, because the yarn I used (some random stuff I found in my basement) was a pretty light weight. Check your gauge!

Ch 15
Row 1: sk 1 ch, sc 13
2 sc in next, work around other side of ch
sc 13, 2 sc in last, sl st in starting sc

Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in each sc around, sl st to join
Repeat row 2 16 more times.

(Don’t FO, but now would be a good time to sew on the buttons. It’ll come in handy when you have to figure out where the button holes will go.)

To continue! (I’m going to start row numbering again to make things easier, but you should be continuing from the main body.)
Row 1: Sc2tog, sc in next 11 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.
Row 2-14: Sc 13, ch1, turn.
Row 15 (for me): Sc 2, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in last 2, ch 1, turn.
Row 16 (for me): Sc in each st, FO.

Teeth (white):
Ch 13. Skip first ch, sc in next 12, ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc, FO.
To make the teeth lines, I used some sweet embroidery skills I remembered from when I was 12, but whatever it takes to make the zig zag pattern.
Once that’s complete, just sew it on where ever it looks best. For me, it was placed to cover rows 4-7 (from the bottom).

Feet (do this twice)
Attach brown yarn at the bottom corner.
Row 1-2: Sc 3, ch1, turn.
Toes: Switch to white, and sc2tog. Ch1, sc in sc2tog, FO. Repeat for the other toe.

Inside Ears:
With light brown, ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 2 sc in next 2 st, 1 sc in last 2 st. Switch to dark brown, sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, 1 sc in last 3 st, FO.

Now theoretically, you should repeat the process for the inside ears for and outside ear, sew them together so you can’t see the light brown from the back, then attach then on top. However, by this point I was too tired and anxious to finish this, so I didn’t bother doing that. But I’d recommend it! I also didn’t bother giving him a tail, because this just holds my MP3 player.

+2 to awesome!

This could easily be modified to hold any other sort of MP3 player (mine happens to be the size of a credit card…seriously), phone case, or whatever!

My project on Ravelry

Camera Case Pattern

Once upon a time, my mother had a pretty good digital camera. Then it got stolen in London (thanks for turning things upside down, random purse-snatching Londoner). She finally bought a new one last week and asked if I could crochet a case for her, which is easy enough, so I obliged. For the first time ever, I actually wrote it down, so here it is! (The camera in question is a Panasonic Lumix, if it matters to anyone.)

Chain 12.
Round 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 9, 2sc in next ch. Working around the chain, 10 sc in next 10 ch, 2sc in last ch, sl st in first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1 (count as sc here and throughout), sc in next 10, 2 sc in next, sc in next 11, 2 sc in next, sl in ch from previous round.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc 25 around, join with sl st in ch 1.
Repeat round 3 until the case is as long as you need it to be. For the Panasonic Lumix in question, I repeated this row 20 times.

Optional: You can add a drawstring if you think the camera could be prone to falling out. I made a similar style camera case a few years ago for myself and still don’t have a drawstring on it.

My project on Ravelry